South East Ridge route

Makalu sits astride the border of Nepal and Tibet in the heart of the Makalu-Barun National Park. The South East Ridge is the most treacherous route up to the summit and one of the most difficult mountain routes in existence.

It was first climbed successfully in 1970 when Japanese climbers Ozaki and Tanaka made it to the top supported by 14 other Japanese mountaineers and 25 Sherpas. In 1976 Spanish climber J Kamprubi made it after he joined forces at the last stages with Czech climbers M Krissak and K. Shubert.

Despite at least 16 subsequent attempts no further ascents of the ridge have been made.

Trekking to Base Camp

To get to base camp we will fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingar (510m) and trek for 12 days with steadily increasing altitude to reach to base camp on the Barun Glacier (4,800m).

We will be trekking through one of the most beautiful and remote areas of Nepal, the Makalu-Barun National park, passing through diverse ecosystems, climate systems and a series of centuries old Nepali cultures.

Nepal’s last remaining alpine meadows and pristine forest are located here, home to the rare Red Panda and over 400 species of birds.

The Ascent

Once at base camp, several days will be spent acclimatising before an Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is established on the ridge at 5800m.

We will make a further 4 camps as we move up the mountain, the highest of these being a lightweight shelter at 7900m to support a summit bid.

Guarding the route to the summit is the Black Gendarme; a steep and formidable rock buttress that straddles the ridge at 7500m. Here the climbers will be exposed to freezing temperatures and the full force of the unrelenting winds.

Beyond the Black Gendarme the uncompromising ridge continues with sheer drops on both sides before rising steeply to the summit at 8463m.

We will descend using the more frequently climbed north side of the mountain route known as Makalu La making us the first team in history to traverse the entirety of Makalu.